Adelphi Distillery
Begrænset antal typisk ca. 300 flasker, med 24-36 flasker allokeret til Danmark.
Prisleje 250-10.000kr, typisk omkring 650-800kr (i den dyre ende, men altid i toppen af klassen når det gælder smag!)
Vi har altid 25-30 forskellige Adelphi aftapninger på lager
Besøg Adelphis egen hjemmeside her: http://www.adelphidistillery.com/ eller bliv medlem af 'The Dancey Man Whisky Club'.
Adelphi Distillery var et lille destilleri, der lå i Glasgow. Imidlertid blev det lukket i 1960. I dag er Adelphi en lille uafhængig aftapper, som indtil slutningen af 2004 blev drevet af Jamie Walker.
Jamie er oldebarn af destilleriets sidste manager. Charles MacLean er stadig næsen i smagspanelet der udvælger fade og laver smagsnoter. Adelphi aftapper kun få fade og altid som enkeltfads whisky ved fadstyrke. Whiskyen koldfiltreres ikke og der tilsættes heller ikke farve/karamel.
Husstilen er topkvalitet til en pris der matcher, dvs. den høje ende – og det er altid specielle og kompromisløse whiskyer der er i flasken. Fyldige, søde og krydrede, ofte vinøse med tørhed og træ.
Adelphis egne ord om firmaet
Founded in 1826, the Adelphi Distillery is now
Under new ownership, Adelphi continues to bottle straight from the finest casks without colouring or chill filtration.
Remaining completely independent, Adelphi is able to offer bottlings from an extensive range of distilleries with Charles Maclean chairing our highly experienced nosing team in the pursuit of excellence.
From left to right: Alex Bruce (Sales & Marketing Director), Liz Macdonald (Company Secretary), Keith Falconer (Chairman), Donald Houston (Director).
Extract from Brian Townsend's 'Scotch Missed - The Lost Distilleries of Scotland' published in 1993:
Adelphi was established by the Gray brothers, Charles and David, in 1825 on what had been a two-acre orchard. It stood just south of the Clyde's
The Gray family operated the distillery throughout its existence, but around 1880 its ownership was acquired by Messrs A. Walker and Co, who already owned two big distilleries in Liverpool and
Unlikely as it seems. Loch Katrine Adelphi was one of the first victims of Edwardian rationalisation after the late-Victorian boom. It was bought by DCL in 1902 and between then and 1907 distilling ceased. Its history since then is vague, but the distillery buildings were not in fact demolished until 1968-70, with the chimney coming down in 1971. The bonded warehouses stayed in use for many years, though they too are now gone and indeed
In 1993, The great-grandson of Archibald Walker, Jamie, revived the Adelphi name as an independent bottler. Jamie was determined not to sacrifice quality for volume, and he was equally adamant that this should be continued when he sold the company in 2004.
Keith Falconer and his neighbour in Argyll, Donald Houston, had approached Jamie on a recommendation, to buy a hogshead of whisky. In fact, they were so impressed that they ended up buying the whole company. After 25 years of working as a chartered accountant and fund manager, Keith was looking for a more entrepreneurial kind of challenge. Donald, like Keith, had backed off from fulltime involvement in his global engineering business, and was equally excited to be involved in the whisky trade.
The new team has been rounded off by Alex Bruce and Liz Macdonald. Whisky is in Alex’s blood. His mother, an Usher, is a direct descendant of Andrew Usher who is credited with pioneering blended whisky, and his father, Lord Elgin, is a patron and former Grand Master of the Keepers of the Quaich. Alex was also made a Keeper of the Quaich in 2006. He has trained with Remy Martin and J&B, and latterly headed up a new office for Friarwood Fine Wines in
Charles Maclean M.A., LL.B., W.S., F.S.A. (Scot)
Charles MacLean is a writer whose special subject is Scotch whisky, about which he has published eight books to date, including the standard work on whisky brands, Scotch Whisky and the leading book on its subject, Malt Whisky, both of which were short-listed for Glenfiddich Awards. See whisky books.
Whisky: A Liquid History, published by Cassell in 2003 was named Wine and Spirit Book of the Year (2005) by the James Beard Foundation of New York. MacLean's Whisky Miscellany was published in 2004.
He was founding editor of Whisky Magazine, and since 1995 has been Contributing Editor of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society's Newsletter (where he also chairs the Nosing Panel and writes the tasting notes). He is whisky correspondent of Scottish Field, British Editor of Whisky (
He was trained in 'the sensory evaluation of potable spirits' by the Scotch Whisky Research Institute in 1992 and has presented numerous tastings and talks in the
He acts as a consultant to the whisky industry on a variety of matters, and over the past 20 years has written promotional materials for all the leading companies and brands. He is also Whisky Consultant to Bonhams Auctioneers.
He was elected a Keeper of the Quaich, the industry's highest accolade, in 1992 for 'his services to Scotch over many years'.
He holds degrees in Art History (St Andrews) and Law (Dundee), is a Writer to Her Majesty's Signet, a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, a Visiting Lecturer to the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, an Honorary Fellow of Massey College, University of Toronto and of Champlain College, University of Trent, a Councillor of the Clan Maclean and a member of the Society of Authors.
He lives near
Adelphi Adelphi's Breath of Angels
Alex Bruce: "In recognition of the “Angels’ Share” (the alcohol that evaporates from a cask during maturation), and their resulting sweetest of breaths, Adelphi has launched a new label to enable it to bottle exceptional single cask whiskies from the “unnameable distilleries”.
In the past, Adelphi has only bottled one cask from such a distillery – the glorious 50 year old "The Whisky That Cannot Be Named". However, it seemed a pity that the casks that met Adelphi’s highest standards of selection should then be rejected simply because they could not be named for marketing reasons. In addition, the Adelphi name alone has come to signify extraordinary quality in the bottle.
The Breath of Angels’ range includes a Highlands, Islay, Isles and Speyside and it should be noted that, not only are all these whiskies still from a single cask, from a single distillery, bottled at natural strength without chill-filtration or colouring, they also exceed the Adelphi quality benchmark."
Qualityworlds smagsnoter
Linkwood 1990 17y 48%, bourbon barrel #9734, ca.204 fl.
Farve: tæt gyldenDuft: prikker i næsen, fudge med tørrede frugter, hint af karamelliseret appelsinskal, lidt metallisk marcipan.
Smag: lækker sødme med ekstrem tør eftersmag. Krydderkage.
Lidt vand: fremhæver krydderkagen og de tørrede frugter, samt vanillen - men gør også smagen mere tør.
Cameronbridge 1978 30y 56.6% #5, sherry butt -> bourbon barrel, ca. 238 fl.
Farve: tæt gylden med flot rødligt skærDuft: på hånden er der urter (?salvie), tæt flødekaramel, svagt branket sirup, fløde (bailey is) og opløsningsmiddel (blyantsspids rester).
Smag: fed, sød, fløde-bolcher, så tørhed og et kort hint af banan lige efter den er sunket.
Lidt vand: hint af mørk chokolade, smagen bliver endnu mere sød og fløde-agtig, med lækre julekrydderier og behagelig let tørhed og træ til sidst.
Mere vand: late harvest Gewurtztraminer
Virkelig dejlig!!!
Glenlivet 1968 40y 51%, bourbon barrel #5252, ca. 139 fl.
Farve: tæt gyldenDuft: støvet loftsrum, flødekaramel opløst i balsamico, abrikoser og indkogte frugter. Hint af mynte-marineret annanas, bagerst lidt læder og cigarkasse.
Smag: marcipan, tæt fed og krydret, så frisk frugt der hurtigt bliver til henkogt frugt og så til tørret frugt. Snert af urter i eftersmagen og en let afkølende effekt i munden.
Virkelig flot!!!
Ardbeg 1999 58.5%, bourbon barrel #626, ca. 274 fl.
Farve: gylden - mere end alderen ville antyde, dvs. super godt bourbon fad (1st fill).Duft: tørve-fyret pejs (på hånden brændt træ og jalapenos lage), smoked kippers og noget ferskhed. Flødekaramel, ?Hint af ost Smag: træ, tørhed og fed røget fisk
Lidt vand: mere olieret, bitter/sødme, bliver mere medicinsk og æterisk og får mere frisk havluft.
Mums!
Macallan 1990 18y 52.8%, bourbon barrel #1117, ca. 244 flasker
Farve: tæt gyldenDuft: hint af balsamico syre, støvet tørt træ, lidt jordslået, hint af svovl (næsten som gammel calvados). Umiddelbart ville man tro det var et sherryfad. Oxideret, madeira/acetone og brændt sukker.
Smag: markant sødere end ventet fra duften, cremet krydret og behagelig tørhed bagerst. Indkogte frugter og bagte æbler.
Lidt vand: mere brændt sukker og æble, næsten calvados/cider agtig i stilen. Smager får bitter/frisk appelsinskal, butterscotch først, så bitterhed og engelsk lakrids.
Mere vand: mere sødme og vanille og mere bitter eftersmag.
Fin whisky - men svær til prisen.
Glen Elgin 1978 30y 46.9%, bourbon barrel #4511, ca. 159 flasker
Farve: superflot rødgyldenDuft: balsamico-eddike (dejlig), gammel bibliotek, hint af bananskal og abrikoser i lager, cigarkasse, nødde olie.
Smag: banan karamel kage - MUMS!! Olieret, sødlig, lækker mild krydret, frisk og tæt på samme tid.
Lidt vand: friske æteriske olier fra krydderurter (mynte og brøndkarse) og lidt bananmos.
Superflot whisky!
Caperdonich 1970 38y 47.1%, bourbon barrel #4378, ca 148 flasker
Farve: flot tæt gyldenDuft: japanske kirsebær, leeche, brankede rosiner og en sjov blanding af voks-blomster og niveau kold-creme.
Smag: sjov afkølende effekt i munden næsten pebbermynte og eucalyptus. Sødme og krydderi og virkelig frisk. Behagelig tørhed til sidst. Flot!
Lidt vand: giver laknoter og is-the, smagen bliver mere tør og lettere med sødlig eftersmag.
Virkelig lækker - men svær til prisen.
Breath of the Isles 1995 13y 60%, bourbon barrel #1791, ca. 294 flasker
Farve: gyldenDuft: flødekaramel, bålrøg og cerrutrøg. Fordampet på håden: ren svømmehal/klor
Smag: tæt flødekaramel, markant blødere end de 60% antyder - når den synkes kommer der chillipebber.
Lidt vand: tjære og asfalt i næsen, fantastisk sødme i smagen.
Adelphi Caol Ila 1988 15 år 59.4%
Denne version har den klassiske fede røg som kun de bedste Caol Ila får, hvor man næsten fornemmer røget bacon og fersk røget laks, snert af citrus og med en mere afdæmpet medicinsk bund. Smagen er tro mod både Caol Ila stilen og Adelphis ‘husstil’ med en tør, stram, men fyldig krydret og sød smag – med en lang og flot røget afslutning.
Adelphi Invergordon 1964 41yo 47.1% fad nr. 57637
Duft: eksplosion af kokkos, vanille og 'rom-rosin', med et flot snert af 'opløsningsmidler' / 'acetone' klassisk for netop gamle grains (samme stil som kendes fra gamle vintage madeira). Flødekaramel og chokolade, blandet med cedertræ og duften af cigartobak før den tændes.
Smag: fløjelsblød, med en tæt koncentreret sødme, cremet næsten flødeagtig, med en dejlig bitter/sød balance, og en let tør afslutning der varer længe ved.
Et par dråber vand gør den primære mere blød og sød, men giver samtidigt eftersmagen mere bid fra alkoholen.
Adelphi Glenrothes 1990 13y 59.7%
Denne udgave af Glenrothes fra Adelphi er meget anderledes end hvad man normalt ville forvente, både af Glenrothes men også af en ‘kun’ 13 års whisky.
Tages denne whisky med i blindsmagninger skydes den som ofte til at være 25-35 år gammel og koste i området 1500-2500, grundet den fantastiske koncentration og kompleksitet.
Næsen har en dejlig sødme og springer op af glasset – med indkogt brun farin, tørrede frugter (dadler/figner/rosiner), mørk fyldt chokolade og et hint af nødder.
Smagen er stram, intens og sød – eksploderer i munden med brændt sødme og krydret let bittert træ. Dejlig tæt og olieret i munden. Et par dråber vand åbner op for både næse og smag, gør whiskyen lettere tilgængelig og afslører flere nuancer.
I samme stil som Bottlers Teaninich, men ikke helt så ekstrem.
Producentens egne smagsnoter
(direkte fra Charles MacLean og Adelphi teamet)
ABERFELDY 1983 * 14 Year Old HIGHLAND
1 of only 296 bottles from Cask N° 942
The distillery was built by Dewars in 1896 and provides fillings for two world famous blends.
This example is the colour of Australian Chardonnay or young Saunternes, and the first impression on the nose is of stewed apples and cream. When water is added, the scent is reminiscent of a hot summer's day - heat haze, mixed pollen and hedgerows, covered by a light honey note. We found it very evocative and 'comforting'. The flavour is sweet and well balanced, floral and warming, with a dry finish.
ARDBEG 1979 * 17 Year Old ISLAY - 55.4% Vol.
1 of only 235 bottles from Cask N° 21
The colour of a Highland burn, this is definitely an out-door whisky. The nose reminds us of well-hung hare, with traces of gun oil and a touch of cordite; with water, oilskins, stilton & broccoli soup and beef & carrot stew emerges.
The flavour is like snuffed candles, burnt and smoky, with a finish like bitter dark chocolate.
ARDBEG 1979 * 17 Year Old ISLAY - 63.2% Vol.
1 of only 226 bottles from Cask N° 12095
This belongs to what we term the 'stag's gralloch' style of Ardbegs, although not as extreme as some. The unreduced nose is so prickly as to yield not a lot. With water comes mint humbugs, oil cloth, Youngs 303 gun oil, mountains (on a warm, wet day), bog plants, iodine and peat reek. The primary taste is surprisingly sweet, with the expected bitter finish; plenty of smoke, some fish on toast (smoked oysters if you like); a whiff of cloves and must. Venison sausages in the finish, or is this wishful thinking?
ARDBEG 1978 * 18 Year Old ISLAY - 64.7% Vol.
1 of only 150 bottles from Cask N° 271
The colour is of old Sauternes, with satinwood lights, and the nose prickle is minimal (drink it straight, if you like). The unreduced aroma is surprisingly sweet - syrup sponge with a liquorice note. When water is added it becomes maple syrup, with a whiff of mossy old bark - the scents you find among the lichen-shrouded birch woods of mid Argyll, where the air is utterly pure. The mouthfeel is full, the primary taste sweet to start, gradually drying out and becoming smoky, betraying its pedigree. The finish is dry-to-bitter, with a chocolate note when drunk neat.
A superb example of a splendid whisky.
ARDBEG 1978 * 18 Year Old ISLAY - 66.6% Vol.
1 of only 168 bottles from Cask N° 272
The colour is of old Sauternes, with satinwood lights, and the nose prickle is minimal (drink it straight, if you like). The unreduced aroma is surprisingly sweet - syrup sponge with a liquorice note. When water is added it becomes maple syrup, with a whiff of mossy old bark - the scents you find among the lichen-shrouded birch woods of mid Argyll, where the air is utterly pure. The mouthfeel is full, the primary taste sweet to start, gradually drying out and becoming smoky, betraying its pedigree. The finish is dry-to-bitter, with a chocolate note when drunk neat.
A superb example of a splendid whisky.
ARDBEG 1976 * 19 Year Old ISLAY - 57.0% Vol.
1 of only 552 bottles from Cask N° 2399
The rich colour of this bottling indicates sherry-butt maturation, although there is little sherry on the nose: the aroma is smoky and sea-weedy, with more than a dash of iodine. A classic
ARDBEG 1978 * 19 Year Old ISLAY - 56.0% Vol.
1 of only 216 bottles from Cask N° 55
In 19 years the first-fill Bourbon cask has coloured the whisky mid-gold. The unreduced nose is powerfully Islay, of the cordite and burnt sticks variety, but mollified with bubble-gum and vanilla.
The last two aromas remain when water is added, while the combustibles become Autumn leaves, mulch and bonfires. The flavour is sweet and salty, with a bitter chocolate finish; well-rounded and, for an
ARDBEG 1976 * 19 Year Old ISLAY - 52.0% Vol.
1 of only 240 bottles from Cask N° 2401
This Bourbon cask has imparted a lovely golden colour to the whisky - deep yellow, like old French Chardonnay. The immediate, undiluted, impression is of soap flakes, with some winey notes and some varnish. Further attentionation draws forth the evocative scent of gun-oil (Youngs 303).
When water is added the scents change and dry out: rock salt, hot sand (like desert), aromatic smoke like burning driftwood. Unmistakably
ARDBEG 1975 * 21 Years Old ISLAY - 53.8% Vol.
1 of only 258 bottled from Cask N° 516
Both the colour - a deep gold, the colour of peaty loch water - and the beading are excellent. The unreduced nose is mellow, with a little prickle; relatively closed, with a trace of mead and some burnt sugar. With water, the nose opens to reveal mashed bananas and cream, with some plums and restrained mint. Perhaps a dash of fresh sawdust. It is important not to add too much water to this bottling.
The flavour is very smooth, and surprisingly gentle for an Ardbeg. The primary taste begins sweetish - with some salt - and closes dry. There are green-apple notes, and again the bananas and mint; the phenols manifest themselves merely as a whiff of diesel oil. An unusually fine cask, which has rounded and mollified this powerful whisky.
ARDBEG 1976 * 21 Year Old ISLAY - 49.2% Vol.
1 of only 180 bottles from Cask N° 453
The most sought-after of the Islays, the colour descriptor which came to mind was 'Aztec gold' - bright and yellow, but the first impression on the nose was more prosaic: plasticine. This continues for a brief moment when water is added, but then the whisky renders what its devotees hope for: carbolic soap, Germoline, wet sheep, but also a dried-fruit note, like fig-pigs, and later a chalky note (aspirins). The primary tastes are sweet, with some salt and a bitter chocolate finish: in between are burnt sticks and bog water, and at the end dry vanilla and, again, aspirins.
Splendid stuff!
AULTMORE 1989 * 8 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 60.1% Vol.
1 of only 229 bottles from Cask N° 3064
The malt has long been rated 'Top Class' by blenders, which accounts for its rarity as a single. This example is very pale, with grey-green lights and good beading. The unreduced nose is of Madeira cake, glacé cherries, almonds and bread and butter pudding (with honey drizzled over it, and double cream). When water is added, these aromas resolve into heather flowers and nougat, and the later comes through loud and clear in the flavour. We were reminded of Toblerone bars (almonds, nougat, honey, chocolate), with a hint of vanilla essence. Everything in balance. Delicious - and quite remarkable for its age.
AULTMORE 1989 * 8 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 59.9% VOL.
1 of only 212 bottles from Cask N° 3065
The malt has long been rated 'Top Class' by blenders, which accounts for its rarity as a single. This example is very pale, with grey-green lights and good beading. The first nosing immediately says rice pudding with a dollop of honey on the top. Concentration revealed almonds and even glacé cherries lurking in the rice pud. When you add water this is all transformed into Toblerone chocolate bars, and the light flavour of nougat in the latter comes through in the taste, which is generally sweet, leaning towards vanilla essence.
An interesting, stylish young whisky.
AULTMORE 1985 * 11 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 61.7% Vol.
1 of only 622 bottles from Cask N° 2898
Drawn from a sherry butt, this whisky has the lovely rich mahogany hue one would expect, and a trace of Oloroso on the nose, with some apple-wood smoke and stewed apples. With water, the smoke develops and the sweet notes become barley-sugar.
The flavour embraces all the primary tastes (sweet, salty, acidic and dry) in balance. We were reminded of barbecues in the hills of Tuscany.
AULTMORE 1985 * 14 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 60.1% VOL.
1 of only 612 bottles from Cask N° 2900
Aultmore is a 'Top Class' malt, and this bottling, from an ex-sherry cask, has a glorious rich amber hue. The nose is unctuously fruity - tinned peaches, cooked apricots, greengage tart, even some dates - with a hint of sulphur one associates with sherry-wood maturation (this soon fades). Water opens up and introduces creme patisserie - a buttery, custard note, lightly perfumed with vanilla. The mouth-feel is smooth and warming, and the flavour has a crisp acidity, with some sweetness, although not as much as the nose would suggest: fresh and complex. An excellent dessert whisky.
AULTMORE 1989 * 15 Yr. Old Speyside 57.8% Vol
1 of only 271 bottles from cask 4799
Aultmore Distillery is situated between Keith and the
AULTMORE 1990 * 16 Yr. Old Speyside 60.7% Vol.
1 of only 571 bottles from cask no. 3641
This is one for those of you who like a heavily sherried style of malt. Aultmore is a rich make which can withstand European oak, although this cask is clearly so active that most of the original character of the whisky is now subsumed beneath flavours coming from the wood. Just look at the colour: deep mahogany, like brown sherry, with curious khaki lights. The nose is immediately treacle toffee and crème brulee, then a trace of pastry becoming tarte tatin, with caramelised apples. There is the promise of brimstone. This is identified when you taste it straight, and emerges big-time when water is added: first match-box striker, then settling down to scorched ironing board, with burn holes, against a background of natural, crystalised brown sugar. A big texture; a taste which is very sweet to start, then bitter-sweet in the long cooling finish. Very little sulphur in the flavour, and only lightly tannic. Drink this with Christmas cake, dark chocolate and black coffee!
BALBLAIR 1965 * 37 Year Old HIGHLAND
1 of only 382 bottles from Cask N° 893
Founded in 1790, Balblair is one of oldest distilleries in Scotland. It is also one of the most northerly, standing in ‘the Parish of Peat’ overlooking the Dornoch Firth. The colour of very old Sauternes, the nose of this rare and ancient malt is mellow (as one would expect) but still fresh, with traces of wild fruits and hedgerows, charred toast and sphagnum moss. It is deliciously sweet, complex and long lasting when tasted straight, but when you add a little water the bouquet increases and develops subtle Elastoplast notes. Now the flavour is amazing big and viscous, very sweet, but not cloying; somewhat mouth-cooling, with fresh dentist’s mouth wash flavours and a long, warm finish. When old whiskies are good, they¹re very, very good!
BALMENACH 1990 * 11 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 59.7% Vol.
1 of only 203 bottles from Cask N° 507
Balmenach is considered a ‘top class malt’ and this cask is a fine example proving this.
The initial nose gives a mild prickle with a hint of pineapple. This develops into mellow, creamy, even slightly oily whiff, with ladies leather gloves as a surprise note. The keynote turns to ice cream (vanilla) and plum flesh. The taste is quite sweet almost like stewed apples and custard. Left for a few minutes the malt becomes sweet and warm (ironing board steam?) and Galaxy chocolate is the beautiful finish – a warming, caring whisky.
BALMENACH 1990 * 13 Years Old SPEYSIDE @ 60.1% Vol * Cask 3560
Balmenach distillery is tucked away beneath the Haughs of Cromdale, where once a battle was fought; a pretty place, producing an uncommon malt with a high reputation. This has been drawn from an American oak hogshead, and has a buttery golden hue – suggesting that this is the first time the cask has held Scotch. At natural strength the nose is rich and wonderfully fruity – juicy apples and pears, then tinned peaches in syrup – with an interesting toasted note behind.
Water adds golden sponge to the fruit and turns the nose into Eve’s pudding. The flavour is sweet to start, but clean and vital, with crisp acidity engaging the sides of the tongue, prior to a surprisingly lengthy finish. A surprisingly rounded and mature whisky for its age, and a first rate example of the make.
BALMENACH 1980 * 15 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 62.1% Vol.
1 of only 492 bottles from Cask N° 2521
The cask chosen has a rich toffee colour, and a nose to match: toffee and damson jam, slightly sharp. With water the aroma is wonderfully 'bosky' - wet autumn leaves, scented smoke, but no trace of wood. There is also an interesting aroma of virgin olive oil.
The mouth-feel is very smooth and viscous, even oily, and rather rich and sweetish. The finish introduces some dryness. Appropriate for any time of day.
BALMENACH 1982 * 15 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 63.4% Vol.
1 of only 333 bottles from Cask N° 2982
A rare and highly regarded whisky, this cask is a good representative. Old gold in colour, with a rich, nutty, boeuf-en-crout nose (some meat, some pastry, etc) and a whiff of peat-smoke. When water is added it sweetens, with a trace of fennel and old mackintosh top-notes upon a clean, almost minty foundation. Curious sea-smells emerge after a while, then almond cakes, a lovely, complex malt.
Ben Nevis 1970 * 34 year old Highland
1 of only 186 bottles from cask 4640
This is the first time Adelphi has bottled a single cask blend, but the opportunity was too good to miss. Blended on site at
Winner of the Malt Maniacs Multiple Personality Award 2005, for the best blended or vatted whisky, and a Silver Medal
Gold Medal winner, Whisky Magazine Independent Bottlers' Challenge 2005
Benriach 1986 * 12 Year Old Speyside - 60.3% Vol.
1 of only 244 bottles from Cask N° 2958
Until recently one rarely had a chance to taste this First Class malt, since it all went into a regal blend. This is a splendid example. Pale gold in colour, with a mulchy nose to start, quickly developing ripe Gala melon notes (yes! Dusted with ginger, with a fine slice of proscuitto). With water it edges towards cooked apples and pears - even apple crumble. The flavour is sweet to start, then bitter-fresh in the finish, and the overall mouth-feel is dry. Worth sipping straight.
Benrinnes 1984 * 21 year old Speyside 57.8 % vol
1 of only 576 bottles from cask 146
Another 'Top Class' malt, Benrinnes is a famously big and robust Speyside, so is not completely dominated by 'sherrywood' maturation, although it is not commonly found in first-fill butts like this. As might be expected the first nose is of brimstone and raw egg yolk, fading to crème caramel. There is a trace of sherry, and then soft, sticky ginger bread as the sulphur blows off. Water brings it back again for a time, in the familiar guise of match-box striker, but soon the ginger bread returns. The initial taste is sweet and thick, then dries out as the tannins engage the middle of the palate. Somewhat mouth-cooling in effect, but causing the tongue to tingle, and leaving a spicy aftertaste, with traces of cloves.
Breath of the Highlands 1985 * 20 year old Highland
1 of only 176 bottles from cask no. 1065
Casks from this unnamable distillery are uncommon: the make is much used in de-luxe blends. This bottling comes from an ex-Bourbon cask and has the lovely, full gold colour, with orange lights, that a good quality American oak cask can bestow. The nose is typical of the make: hedgerows and rose-hips and succulent wild flowers – late summer scents. In a moment beeswax emerges, and traces of lemon-peel: natural, Highland scents. Water increases the wax and moves the scene to a forest – beech-mast and moss – then clean cotton, even cotton-wool. An unusual nose; complex and rewarding. The flavour follows through: waxy, mouth-coating, teeth-coating; a heavy sweetness, then drying and cooling in a medium to long finish.
Winner of a Bronze Medal, Malt Maniacs' Awards 2006
Breath of the Isles 1992 * 13 year old Island 53.4 % vol
1 of only 309 bottles from cask 3203
Although we cannot name this distillery, this example will quickly bring back memories if you have visited, and fire the imagination if you haven’t.
Pale gold in colour, from a refill American hogshead, this has a wonderful beading – big and long lasting. The nose is all about “dirty fragrance”. Bog myrtle, out on the moor, sea tangle and then lollipops. The initial peat and exhaust smoke is soon replaced by sweetness while the addition of water heightens the senses and brings out bath salts. On the palate, a lovely thick mouthfeel, much sweeter than expected with a lingering peaty smoke and kick of chilli pepper in the finish.
An outdoor whisky to be savoured indoors
Breath of the Isles 1992 * 13 year old Island 52.6 % vol
1 of only 299 bottles from cask 3201
The second release of our Breath of the Isles label. Once again, this is from an “unnamable” distillery situated on one of
From an American oak hoggy, this is pale gold in colour. Excellent beading – the size and duration of the bubbles created from shaking the bottle – this suggests a thick texture. A strong, peppery nose with hints of sphagnum moss, fragrant smoke and dry spice. The addition of water brings out more moss, but this time fresh like an open moor in a strong north-westerly gale, distant smoke and a lovely sweetness. The flavour is very complex, with long flavours, a good dose of smoke and the tell-tale kick of pepper in the finish.
A vivid dram.
Breath of Islay 1992 * 14 year old Islay56.5 % vol
1 of only 278 bottles from cask 5347
You have seven distilleries to choose from, but we are sworn to secrecy… The bottling comes from a refill hogshead and the colour is pale gold, with greenish lights. We were transported immediately to the back-streets of Arbroath, where the smokies are made in small sheds. A scent of smouldering green sticks or, we are assured, ‘Skillingaryd Salva’ (a kind of Scandinavian hand cream), and later a trace of vinegar and smoked cheese. Water introduces banks of rotting kelp, tennis balls and blistered boat varnish on a warm day. Appetising? The taste is surprisingly sweet, with a big, full-bodied and unctuous texture, some salt and clouds of smoke. A truly massive flavour, with a long finish and lingering bonfires. Magnificent!
Breath of Speyside 1991 * 16 year old Speyside 57.9 % vol
1 of only 577 bottles from cask 4229
From a “secret” distillery in Speyside, this whisky has taken much of its character from the cask, a first-fill ex-sherry butt. The colour is deep amber, and the nose seems to match, being at once profound and fresh/citric: plain chocolate oranges, wrapped in orange peel, then caramel creams and real vanilla pods, then sweet tobacco. Water does not raise the ghost of brimstone immediately, although there is a whiff in due course to combine with the overall scent of saddle-soap. The texture is rich, and the taste picked up all at the back of the tongue: there is little sweetnsss, no acidity, a interesting saltiness and an after-taste of coffee beans dipped in chocolate. A manly dram!
BRECHIN 1976 * 24 Year Old HIGHland
1 of only 259 bottles from Cask N° 3897
North Port Distillery, in Brechin, Angus, closed in 1983 and was dismantled soon after. It was rarely bottled by its proprietors as a single, and examples of the make are now very rare. This one still has vivacity, in spite of its great age. The colour is amber, shot with delicate pink lights. The nose
still presents a little prickle and is reminiscent of baked pears, with some polished leather and struck matches; a little water enhances its complexity and vividness. We found it difficult to describe: wine-gums is the only coherent note. The mouth-feel is smooth and slightly spritzich; the flavour is sweet overall, but incorporates all the other primary tastes. The finish is long and warming, leaving the tongue tingling.
BRUICHLADDICH 1970 * 30 Year Old ISLAY – 49.4% Vol.
1 of only 237 bottles from Cask N° 5076
Bruichladdich is the most traditional of the Islay distilleries, and alas it has been mothballed for several years, going into production only for a couple of months every other year. It's make is
from unpeated malt, so is quite unlike the big smoky whiskies of Kildalton Parish. This is a superb example. Full Aztec gold in colour, with a wonderfully big, fragrant nose; orange juice, pomander, dried fruits and glace peel, with a background of almond paste and bath oil, and all the aromas holding together when a dash of water is added. The flavour at natural strength is rich and oily; the fruit and almonds still apparent; dry overall, but with a pleasant sweetness and acidity making for depth and complexity. This is what old whisky should taste like - wonderfully matured but still vibrant, and with no flatness or woodiness.
CAOL ILA 1992 * 10 Year Old ISLAY – 59.4% Vol.
1 of only 297 bottles from Cask N° 7250
Caol Ila often reminds up of a recently cleaned, old fashioned dairy: a combination of cream and carbolic. The unreduced nose of this example (from a refill American oak hogshead) is no exception. It could be nothing but an
Water develops a slight fishiness, with Plasticine, creosote and a whiff of smoke. It is in the mouth that it really shows its pedigree: innocuously sweet, even mildly fruity in the front of the mouth, some arresting saltiness half-way, then charcoal sticks and dead bonfires at the back, leaving an aftertaste of foot-baths. Delicious!
CAOL ILA 1991 * 12 Years Old Islay @ 59.4% Vol
Cask 13374
Not as widely promoted as other Islay distilleries (because it is in big demand by the Johnnie Walker blends), Caol Ila is nevertheless a classic ‘big’
CAOL ILA 1990 * 13 Years Old Islay @ 57% Vol
Cask 4842
Not as widely promoted as other Islay distilleries (because it is in big demand by the Johnnie Walker blends), Caol Ila is nevertheless a classic ‘big’
Caol Ila 1993 * 13 year old Islay 59.4 % vol
1 of only 282 bottles from cask 1954
One of the classic
This refill American oak hogshead has produced a mid-gold, unoaked Chardonnay colour for its incumbent. As clean and sharp as a surgeon’s scalpel, transiting from operating theatre to mouthwash, to a lovely Frisian Nagelkaas (Dutch soft cheese with cloves).
The flavour is massive: sweet, vinegary, then typically tarry with a huge, acrid bonfire aftertaste.
With water, the medicinal aromas become more like Elastoplast, with beach scents behind, and a vinyl polish like a new car interior.
Mouth filling and sweet to start, a nice acidic interlude and then bags of smoke on the finish. The after effect is clean and satisfying – an excellent example of the make.
CAOL ILA 1988 * 15 Years Old Islay @ 59.4% Vol
Cask 4247
Not as widely promoted as other Islay distilleries (because it is in big demand by the Johnnie Walker blends), Caol Ila is nevertheless a classic ‘big’
CAOL ILA 1976 * 21 Year Old islAy - 59.9% Vol.
1 of only 178 bottles from Cask N° 8093
This is a key filling for a world renowned De Luxe blend, so is rarely found as a single. The refill cask has given this superb example a fine mid amber hue - rich and mature. The nose is of rape-seed oil and stewed malt. The flavour is mouth-filling and smooth, beginning sweet and finishing dry. A wonderful whisky - easy to drink, satisfying, more-ish.
CAOL ILA 1976 * 21 Year Old isLay - 58.1% Vol.
1 of 216 bottled from Cask N° 8094
This is the key filling for a world renowned De Luxe blend, so it is rarely found as a single. The refill cask has given this superb example a fine mid amber hue - rich and mature. The nose is lightly oily and smoky, but with overtones of syrup sponge and whipped cream, and when water is added a distinct smell of traditional apple dumpling, made with suet! After a while in the glass we also noted olive oil bread and burnt sticks. The flavour is mouth filling and smooth, beginning sweet and finishing dry. A wonderful whisky - easy to drink, satisfying, more-ish.
CAOL ILA 1976 * 22 Year Old islAy - 59.7% Vol.
1 of only 250 bottles from Cask N° 8095
We are always impressed by this uncommon Islay - uncommon, simply because the bulk of it goes into a very well known blend. This is a lovely mellow example - the colour of Aztec gold, with deep yellowy hue. The nose is mild: a mix of concentrated orange juice and putty before water is added, then bubble gum, gun oil, lint, cowslips and over-ripe pears. The peat-reek that one might expect is not apparent on the nose, but abundant in the taste as burnt sticks and dry earth, lingering in the aftertaste. The overall taste starts sweetish, introduces both a fresh acidity and some salt, and finishes dry. An interesting and unusual example of this malt.
Clynelish 1996 * 10 year old Highland 59.6 % vol
1 of only 580 bottles from cask 8250
Clynelish Distillery sits high up on the North-East coast of Scotland in the famous town of Brora. Famous for producing top-quality malt, this single cask from 1996 is no exception.
From a refill sherry butt, this has a lovely burnished copper colour, with a moderate beading (pointing to good mouthfeel and texture), and a fairly lively nose.
Soft leather in the front, giving way to apple pie with spices (cloves?), then slightly caramelized with a trace of honey comb. There is also a strong sense of waxy apple skins, even a hint of toffee apples.
The flavour starts with a light sweetness (heather honey), and then a distinct waxiness after a while – both strong characters of the make. Then, some hot spice at 50% reduction, but remaining sweet.
All in all, an extremely well-balanced and shaped whisky for its age.
Clynelish 1988 * 11 Year Old hIGHLAND – 59.8% VOL.
1 of only 288 bottles from Cask N° 1698
This whisky is an Adelphi favourite and has been a mainstay of the collection. It has a mid gold colour, medium body and good legs. The initial nose is a little prickly with a certain sweetness. There are some buttery raw pastry notes backed by a slight oil cloth nose turning to thin honey even icing sugar and sugared almonds. Diluted the sweetness is much more apparent with a linseed oil come Barbour jacket nose. A wonderful scented wax or candle smoke aroma develops that is more apparent when tasted. The mouthfeel is dry with a lingering sweetness.
CLYNELISH 1989 * 12 Year Old HIGHLAND – 57.2% Vol.
1 of only 580 bottles from Cask N° 3280
An Adelphi favourite and mainstay of the selection, this Clynelish comes from a first fill South African Sherry butt. It has a wonderful mahogany/rosewood colour that corresponds to the sweet banana nose (glazed with demerara sugar). With water the sherry has a drying effect and the salty, earthy Clynelish is released - the position of the distillery makes one expect these influences.
This expression is mouth filling, smooth and viscous, with brown sugar as the keynote, ideally warming – unusual for the sherry to give such sweetness.
CLYNELISH 1989 * 13 Year Old HIGHLAND – 56.7% Vol.
1 of only 640 bottles from Cask N° 3281
Clynelish Distillery stands on the edge of the fishing port of Brora, overlooking what used to be called the German Ocean. It’s malt has long been esteemed. This example is the colour of old gold, probably from a first-fill ex-Bourbon cask, and has one of the heaviest beads we have ever encountered – an indication of thick texture, and it does not disappoint. The nose presents slightly overdone baked apples (skins scorched; slightly caramelised), with some dried herbal notes – the latter becomes smouldering dried moss when water is added, and the apple-skin is restored and made slightly waxy. Wonderfully thick in the mouth and bitter-caramel-sweet – reminiscent of old Sauternes, but more acidic. A pudding whisky?
CLYNELISH 1984 * 16 Years Old HIGHLAND – 54.0% Vol.
1 of only 288 bottles from Cask N° 3077
The first impression on the nose is of gently melting vanilla ice cream, on a warm summer’s day, sitting on a sandy beach with a bonfire smouldering somewhere in the distance. After
a moment or two the smoky aromas become slightly medicinal – matron, or medicine chests – and the beach-notes edge towards plasticine, but when water is added they go right back to being beachy (fresh, maritime, warm sand, dry linen), with hints of rose puchong tea. The flavours translate the nose well; the mouthfeel is somewhat viscous and oily, and the palate balances all the primary tastes: sweetness, dryness, acidity and saltiness.
CLYNELISH 1974 * 27 Year Old HIGHLAND – 56.3% Vol.
1 of only 213 bottles from Cask N° 2565
Clynelish is one of only a handful of malts singled out by name for praise by the great oenophile, George Saintsbury, in the 1920s. The distillery is in Brora, overlooking the
The whisky is mouth filling, sweet and heads towards the back of the throat like slow moving lava.
A seriously grown-up dram!
CLYNELISH 1972 * 28 Year Old HIGHLAND – 57.3% Vol.
1 of only 331 bottles from Cask N° 14264
Clynelish is one of only a handful of malts singled out by name for praise by the great oenophile, George Saintsbury, in the 1920s. The distillery is in Brora, overlooking the
The mouth-feel is smooth, waxy and mouth-filling, and the perfume comes through in the flavour, along with bees-wax. The primary tastes are both sweet and sour, with a fair shake of salt in the medium-length finish.
Cragganmore 1993 * 13 year old Speyside 60.2 % vol
1 of only 265 bottles from cask 1906
Cragganmore Distillery is situated on the Ballindalloch Estate beside the Strathspey railway line. Founded in 1869, it has deservedly become one of Diageo’s flagship single malts. As a result, independent bottlings are both rare and highly sought-after.
This bottling is from a refill American oak hogshead. On the nose we can find white raisins, possibly soaked in brandy, with some leather soap and caramelised oranges. With water, there is a hint of fresh toast, pear drops and citrus fruit - dried bananas and orange peel. The palate brings cold meat, fresh dates and a lovely mouth drying acidity to round off the finish.
An excellent accompaniment to fish.
Dailuaine 1980 * 21 Year Old sPEYSIDE – 56.1% Vol.
1 of only 296 bottles from Cask N° 4150
Dailuaine (pronounced Daal-ewan) translates from the Gaelic as the green vale; actually the vale in which the distillery snugly sits on the eastern bank of the River Spey is more like a dell. Its product is ranked First Class by blenders. This cask is pure Speyside. Full gold in colour (from an American hogshead), the nose-feel is mild and the aroma perfumed and gloriously fruity, led by kiwi-fruits and orange squash, with a hint of floor polish. Water brings up the last-mentioned waxy note, but it also advances marshmallows in large measure, and, as it breathes in the glass, lemon meringue pie. The mouth-feel is smooth and somewhat drying; the flavour sweet overall, with some light acidity and dryness towards the end. The polish returns as beeswax, and the finish is reminiscent of grapefruits.
DAILUAINE 1980 * 22 Year Old SPEYSIDE – 55.2% Vol.
1 of only 244 bottles from Cask N° 4151
Another uncommon malt, since it is so popular with blenders, Dailuaine was once affiliated to Talisker Distillery (surprisingly). This bottling has also come from a refill ex-sherry butt, and has the tell-tale tawny hue of European oak. For its age the nose is still vibrant, although mellow and delicate, with layers of fruit (baked apples? ) and floral scents. It drinks well at full strength, with a sweet lingering warmth, but when you add a dash of water the aromatic characteristics remain intact, perhaps with the addition of a waft of sandalwood. The flavour is soft and sweet, with a lengthy finish and, again, a slight tannic drying.
DALMORE 1989 * 11 Years Old HIGHLAND – 57.2% Vol.
1 of only 577 bottles from Cask N° 998
Dalmore distillery overlooks the Cromarty Firth towards the Black Isle. Its product is rich and fruity and this example is no exception. This is from a first-fill sherry butt and has a glorious mahogany colour, with magenta lights. The nose exhibits both cooked and dried fruits (prunes and dried mango; fruit cake; rum and raisin toffee) and a hint of the light oiliness one often associates with this make. Water edges the latter aroma towards suet pudding; French apple tart was also detected, but the fruit takes a back seat. The mouthfeel is smooth and mild (Silk Cut cigarettes appear in the notes), and the flavour is sweet with treacle toffee to start with, then drying slightly and leaving a lingering taste of apple tart and oil in the finish. A classic Dalmore.
Drink it with a mild creamy Havana.
Glen Elgin 1991 * 16 year old Speyside 55.1 % vol
1 of only 566 bottles from cask 2599
Glen Elgin is highly regarded in the whisky trade, but it is not commonly encountered, being very popular with blenders. Since 1930 it has been licensed to White Horse Distillers. Unusually, this example comes from a first fill ex-sherry butt, which has given it the colour of pale mahogany. It also has unusually good beading. The first nose is exquisite: thick
GLEN ELGIN 1974 * 26 Years Old HIGHLAND – 57.3% Vol.
1 of only 226 bottles from Cask N° 3
Made from the first spirit run of the year over a quarter of a century ago, this refill cask has done a terrific job on a Top Class whisky. We also nosed cask nº 4, where the opposite was true, alas. Dull amber colour, with a reasonable bead, the first impression is big and dense: dried fruits, cherry cake, old varnish (bubbled by a blow torch), fresh plums (there is still some vitality). Water dulcifies and rounds off: hints of honey-comb (to be precise, crumpets, burnt on the bottom, with butter and comb honey). The mouth-feel is smooth and waxy; sweet, hot and surprisingly powerful (it takes a lot of water), drying slightly in the finish. The development is ‘cold, overcooked, roast beef’. A rare treat as a digestif.
Glen Garioch 1990 * 17 year old Highland 55.8 % vol
1 of only 285 bottles from cask 2689
The distillery does not stand in a glen, but it is seated among the rolling pastures of ‘The Garioch’ (pronounced ‘Geerie’), some of the best farm-land in Aberdeenshire. This example of its make comes from a refill hogshead, and the whisky’s colour is bright amber. There is some nose prickle, then an aroma which reminded us of ‘pre-mix lemon meringue pie’ – both sweet (icing sugar) and fresh (lemon curd and peel). It has a cleanness, combined with a very slight phenolic component, akin to lint bandages, and when water is added, this emerges as sphagnum moss, and even lint smeared with Savlon cream. Behind this there is both baked pear and tinned pear. The taste is sweetish, clean and fresh, with some lingering acidity and a trace of smoke in the finish.
GLEN GRANT 1974 * 27 Year Old SPEYSIDE – 56.9% Vol.
1 of only 502 bottles from Cask N° 7638
Glen Grant is an Adelphi favourite, especially the ex-sherry casks like this one. The colour is a charming light teak, very seductive. The nose is slightly prickly; and winey notes from the sherry come through. This develops into toffee/treacle aromas with a grounding of dark chocolate.
With water this changes to white chocolate, apricots and tablet.
To taste the malt is a little sour (bung cloth) slightly like coffee, although demerara sugar comes through. The nose changes again to kiwi fruit but tastes like bananas; it needs a lot of time to relish the complexities of this cask!
GLEN GRANT 1968 * 31 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 57.7% VOL.
1 of only 405 bottles from Cask N° 1706
Glen Grant is a classic Speyside, but its owners favour refill maturation and light, fresh, pale style. This has lain for 31 years in a first fill amontillado butt, and the result is sensational. It has the deep mahogany hue of first incumbent, but, although sherry is immediately apparent on the nose, it does not prevent a glorious melange of toffee, dried and cooked fruits (notably dates and candied peel), rum-and-raisin ice cream, scented furniture polish and, at the back, coffee grounds and burnt toast. The nose-feel is rounded but lively, and the remarkable vivacity of this old malt comes out when a little water is added (don't add too much; it closes down): juicy and fresh, with oranges in dark rum, sandalwood and fudge. The mouth-feel is big and chewy, but still fresh; sweet, but with lovely acidity and a dry finish; an overall taste of dark chocolate, with coffee in the finish, which is long and rewarding. Serve as a digestif, certainly, or try it alone with fruit cake or Italian pan forte or panettone.
GLEN GRANT 1969 * 31 Years Old SPEYSIDE – 53.9% Vol.
1 of only 511 bottles from Cask N° 1772
The ex-sherry cask from which these bottles have been drawn has given the whisky a gorgeous magenta hue, like highly polished antique mahogany or Chinese lacquer. The nose is surprisingly lively for its age, with prunes and plums to start, settling down to dark chocolate, with a light medicinal note (Friar’s Balsam, to be precise). It needs only a drop of water, and this transforms the medicine into camphor, the plums into barley sugar. The flavour is sweet then dry, unusually minty with wonderful clove flavours lingering in the finish. Too often whiskies of this age become undesirably woody or musty: this cask has bestowed a freshness, which combines beautifully with the deep complexity of venerable maturity.
Glen Grant 1970 * 31 Year Old sPEYSIDE – 55.4% Vol.
1 of only 485 bottles from Cask N° 1036
The ex-sherry cask from which these bottles have been drawn has given the whisky a gorgeous magenta hue, like highly polished antique mahogany or Chinese lacquer. The nose is surprisingly lively for its age, with prunes and plums to start, settling down to treacle/dark chocolate, with a light medicinal note. It needs only a drop of water, and this transforms the medicine into sandalwood and struck matches. The flavour is sweet then sour, unusually minty with wonderful clove flavours lingering in the finish (and a slight hint of homemade playdough).
Too often whiskies of this age become undesirably woody or musty: this cask has bestowed a freshness, which combines beautifully with the deep complexity of venerable maturity.
GLENLIVET 1980 * 23 Years Old Speyside @ 50% Vol
Cask 13743
Described by Robert Louis Stevenson as ‘the King o’Malts’, The Glenlivet has enjoyed a high reputation since the 1820s. This stylish example is drawn from a hogshead and has a pale amber colour. The nose is rich and fruity - fruit salad and fruit salad chews; oranges, peaches, apricots, apples and sub-dried tomatoes were all identified, along with almond paste, gorse flowers and coconut milk. The latter increased when water was added and was joined by fresh plums and pain au chocolat (with a slightly burnt base). The mouth-feel is voluptuous and mouthfilling; the primary taste sweet then dry, and the overall flavour: Ferrero Rocher (sp?) chocolates. A long, comforting finish and overall a sophisticated and classy malt. Drink when you’ve time to appreciate it.
GLENLIVET 1975 * 27 Year Old SPEYSIDE – 55.4% Vol.
1 of only 206 bottles from Cask N° 7638
Ah, the profound fruity complexity of very old whiskies! Were this a Cognac, we would swear that rancio was present. It has come from a refill ex-sherry cask, and has a richness which is tempered by almonds and cigar boxes. Tasted at full strength it is sweet, then dry with a very long finish. It holds together well with a drop of water, becoming at once fruitier (apricots? Even tinned peaches), sweeter (now a hint of soft brown sugar and oilier (linseed), with a faint mossy-mustiness tucked in behind. Sweet, then almost minty-fresh in the mouth, drying in the long finish. An exceptional whisky.
GLENLOSSIE 1981 * 17 Years Old HIGHLAND - 59.0% Vol.
1 of only 281 bottles from Cask N° 1679
Glenlossie is described as 'Top Class' by blenders and is therefore in such demand that you rarely see it bottled as a single. This example has a lovely
Adelphi Glenrothes 2000 * 6 year old Speyside 56.5 % vol
1 of only 317 bottles from cask 2413
Famous for its use in the Cutty Sark blend, Glenrothes is a highly-respected Speyside distillery whose make takes sherry maturation particularly well.
This is from a 1st fill sherry hogshead giving the whisky a wonderful polished rosewood colour even after only 6 years! With a Guinness bead (settling to frog spawn) you know that this is going to be a special whisky.
A great, full-fudge nose with bags of raisins and almonds (even Cadbury’s Fruit & Nut), then through the Oloroso sherry stage and briefly, top class balsamic vinegar, before reverting to toffee (now treacle).
Wow! The flavour at full strength is sweet, then dry with herbs and brimstone (the latter is very faint and blows off quickly).
A little water is enough, retaining the vinegar note with burnt sugar and even the de-glaze after roasting game.
A big mouthfeel: sweet start, tannic middle, long, dry finish with herbal notes. An exceptional, young whisky!
GLENROTHES 1992 * 10 Year Old SPEYSIDE – 57.1% Vol.
1 of only 312 bottles from Cask N° 10965
Although the distillery is owned by Highland Distillers (whom we admire for the consistent quality of their whiskies), the only proprietary bottlings of Glenrothes come from the distinguished wine merchant,
GLENROTHES 1984 * 12 Years Old SPEYSIDE - 55.9% Vol.
1 of only 276 bottled from Cask N° 12745
The pale colour indicates maturation in an ex-Bourbon cask, and this is confirmed by the vanilla aromas when the whisky is nosed straight. A full, creamy, nose with a typical, estery, Speyside character. With water a delicious aroma of freshly baked scones emerges, and the sweet-associated scents become honeyed. There is a trace of gooseberries, violets and geranium leaves. The flavour engages the whole palate: very smooth and clean, sweet to start, then bitter.
The finish is pure macaroons, with some hazelnuts. A delightful after lunch malt.
GLEN ROTHES 1990 * 13 Years Old Speyside @ 59.7% Vol
Cask 15355
Glen Rothes Distillery stands in the village of Rothes on Speyside, and has nothing to do with the ghastly New Town of the same name. Proprietary bottlings are all done by Berry Bros. & Rudd, the
GLENROTHES 1980 * 18 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 56.3% Vol.
1 of only 282 bottles from Cask N° 1459
Rated Top Class, demand for this malt by blenders means that only a small amount is made available as a single. This is one of the best casks we have encountered. Not only has it given the whisky the colour of polished teak, with pink lights and heavy beading, but it has bestowed a wonderful nose. Buttered crumpets, toffee fondue to start with, then, with water, banoffi pie, fresh figs, tablet, gingerbread, a dash of aniseed and a thread of scented smoke. The mouth-feel is rich and smooth, the flavour sweet to start and dry in the finish, with traces of coffee, and a light coffee aftertaste. Be careful who you introduce this whisky to: it is perilously drinkable, especially after dinner.
GLENROTHEs 1976 * 24 Year Old sPEYSIDE – 52.7% Vol.
1 of only 292 bottles from Cask N° 2711
Glenrothes is rarely available as a single, and this in limited amounts, since it is ranked Top Class by blenders. This example is pale gold in colour, but throws an astonishingly heavy bead, and has a fantastically thick texture. The nose is rich and fruity, we were reminded of Ribena, with undertones of treacle toffee and syrup sponge with chocolate sauce. This modifies and lightens into pineapple and Rich Tea biscuits when water is added. The mouth-feel is smooth and coats the palate, even the roof of the mouth, and the flavour is sweet and chocolaty, with a long finish and an aftertaste of chocolate fondue.
Adelphi Glen Scotia 1991 * 14 year old Campbeltown 61.6 % vol
1 of only 258 bottles from cask 1071
Glen Scotia has always been the poor relation of Springbank, and its make is inconsistent – which makes it all the more exciting when you find an exceptional cask! This example, is from a refill hogshead and is pale gold in colour. At natural strength, the nose is of French apple tart, but made with Granny Smith apples (slightly acidic), and a hint of icing sugar with lemon juice. The nose remains fresh when water is added, joined now by wood shavings and a light vanilla toffee note. There is a trace of smoke (char) behind and a curious meaty (haggis) note. The mouthfeel is oily, with an attractive balance – light sweetness, drying to slightly bitter, with a lingering nutty flavour and a slight medicinal trace (Elastoplast). Sweet tobacco in the development.
Winner of a Bronze Medal, Malt Maniacs' Awards 2006
HIGHLAND PARK 1988 * 10 Year Old Island - 59.8% Vol.
1 of 614 bottles from Cask Nº 1922
Even after ten years, this first-rate Spanish oak cask has leant a rich amontillado colour to the whisky. The nose is rich and sweet - Malmsey, treacle toffee, roasted sweet chestnuts, saffron. With water, a mild chocolate-minty note joins the throng, and a whiff of brimstone. The mouth-feel is thick and mouth filling, but not cloying, and the overall impression on the palate is a delicate amalgamation of primary tastes - neither sweet nor dry - rounded and elegant, with a hint of smoke in the finish, as one would expect from this classic malt whisky.
HIGHLAND PARK 1988 * 12 Year Old Island – 60.9% Vol.
1 of only 517 bottles from Cask N° 10463
Founded in the 18th century, the distillery stands just outside Kirkwall, on the Orkney Mainland. This bottling is from a second-fill sherry butt. The whisky has a good amber hue, and a mild well-matured nose; the first aroma is of golden syrup on burnt toast, this impression is enhanced when water is added, with a hint of brimstone. The image it conjures is of sitting by a coal fire, eating toast after a sea-cliff walk. The texture is big and smooth; very sweet to start, smoky in the finish, and with cough medicine in the aftertaste. A classic example of the make, but sweeter than the standard bottling. You are doomed if you’ve got a sweet tooth!
HIGHLAND PARK 1986 * 16 Year Old ISLAND – 57.9% Vol.
1 of only 273 bottles from Cask N° 2288
We expect the malt from our most northern distillery to be at once maritime, sweet and smoky. This doesn’t disappoint, but all the elements are subtle. Eighteen-carat gold in colour, which is slightly paler than the standard bottling (this is a refill hogshead), there is plenty of brine, driftwood and dried seaweed on the nose, and behind this a lime-wash note, distant bonfire (spent) and a latent sweetness. Water makes the latter more fruity and more acidic - we were reminded of fresh red-currants and lychees – and the wood-ash of the bonfire is more apparent.
The flavour defines these scents: big sweetness to start, crisp acidity, with the familiar ‘heather stalk peatiness’ we associate with
Drink at any time.
HIGHLAND PARK 1985 * 17 Year Old ISLAND – 55.3% Vol.
1 of only 314 bottles from Cask N° 2903
Long famous for the quality of its malt, Highland Park was founded by a former smuggler in the 1790s just outside
The first nose immediately yields green notes such as nettles and aubergines; behind this fresh lime-sherbets, and behind this again a sweeter, more toffied note, like Callard & Bowsers caramels. The addition of water changes this considerably, revealing more of the distillery character, which is more maritime – dried seaweed, a trace of diesel oil, a thread of smoke – but still with a sweet tablet-like aroma behind. At full strength the flavour is sweet and oily, with a slightly charred taste and a very dry finish. Water enhances the smoke. A good, but unusual, example of the make.
HIGHLAND PARK 1982 * 20 Year Old ISLAND – 56.4% Vol.
1 of only 221 bottles from Cask N° 1286
Our most northern distillery malts a proportion of its own barley, and maintains that this makes a key contribution to the light smokiness one associates with the whisky made there. Do not expect to pick up smoke on first nosing – the aroma is more of heather flowers and hedgerow flowers, with a trace of honey – and even when water is added you have to work hard to identify peat-reek through all the sweetness and maritime scents. But when you taste it there it is, as you swallow, after a big, sweet, mouth-filling start, and lingering like a smouldering ember long after the drink’s gone down.
HIGHLAND PARK 1979 * 21 Year Old Island – 51.7% Vol.
1 of only 261 bottles from Cask N° 4164
The microclimate of Orkney, a refill cask and two decades have reduced the strength of this whisky substantially and rendered it wonderfully subtle. Pale gold in colour, there is a whiff of white pepper on the nose, a draught of sea breeze, some shavings of cooking chocolate and a smokiness which is more dried turf than burning peat. Water dulcifies considerably (candy-floss and icing sugar), with a trace of new plastic buckets and a thread of smoke. It drinks well straight (sweet and lightly salty, with lint bandages and fragrant smoke); water simply reduces the impact of all these flavours. If you can bear to leave it in the glass for twenty minutes or so, an aroma of old-fashioned oilskins emerges.
HIGHLAND PARK 1973 * 26 Year Old Island - 54.6% Vol.
1 of 193 bottles from Cask Nº 3900
Always well crafted and full of character, this is an outstanding example of Orkney's most famous creation. Natural amber in colour, and with beading as heavy as frogspawn, the nose is at first dense, with light nose prickle. Then comes treacle toffee, nail varnish remover, plastic pails,
Inchgower 1980 * 24 year old Speyside 60.4 % vol
1 of only 574 bottles from cask no. 14152
Inchgower Distillery is a long way from Speyside, although it adopts the appellation, perhaps on the justifiable ground of the style of the malt. This is bottled from an ex-sherry butt and has a gorgeous rose-wood colour and a heavy bead. There is a slight egg note on first sniff, but this soon becomes custard-like - crème brullee, with burnt sugar on top, to be exact – accompanied by prune juice and walnuts. Deep, increasingly complex, and typical of Spanish oak maturation. Water brings up moist sultanas and other mixed dried fruits; the burnt sugar is still there, as it dried out marzipan. The flavour at full strength is of sweet espresso coffee; it becomes more interesting and unusual at reduced strength: smooth and virile, with a sweet start giving way to a coffee-like, burnt-bitter finish.
Silver Medal winner at the Malt Maniacs 2005 awards
Gold Medal winner, Whisky Magazine Independent Bottlers' Challenge 2005
INCHGOWER 1966 * 37 Years Old Speyside @ 60.85% Vol
When this malt was distilled, Inchgower was owned by Arthur Bell & Sons. It stands on the outskirts of the Moray Firth fishing
ISLE OF JURA 1996 * 6 Year Old ISLAND – 60.5% Vol.
1 of only 265 bottles from Cask N° 1917
Very rarely do we find casks so young which are so thoroughly mature. This is from an American first-fill hogshead, which has donea splendid job. The colour is already 18 carat gold, the nose is only mildly prickly and the first aroma is of sweet tealeaves, stewing in a teapot.
Water brings out traces of almonds, wallpaper paste and plastic buckets, pleasantly fresh and balanced. The flavour echoes the nose (apart from the wall-paper!): sweet, fresh, surprisingly long, with a pleasant lingering, almond-like aftertaste. Youthful, but perfectly formed.
KNOCKDHU 1989 * 12 Year Old HIGHLAND – 56.6% Vol.
1 of only 572 bottles from Cask N° 286
Bottled from a first fill sherry butt this whisky is beautiful deep amber. The nose is quite gentle with a little prickle but the keynote is the Highland Toffee sweetness (with the Highland Cow on the label) with a hint of gun oil behind. With water the sweetness remains and the oiliness is more like linseed. Also detected were green leaves, dry sand and hands after gardening.
The mouthfeel is mainly coating and the taste sweet to dry/bitter. The development is much like a Crunchie bar. – an excellent aperitif.
KNOCKDHU 1978 * 18 Year Old HIGHLAND - 58.8% Vol.
1 of only 638 bottles from Cask N° 1888
Drawn from an Amontillado butt, this has a gorgeous rich, amber hue with good beading and only a slight nose prickle. The unreduced aroma is slightly sherried and dry, with noticeable citric notes, more lime juice than orange. The latter develop when water is added, with some estery bubblegum and a whiff of freshly made horseradish. In the background is a warm ironing board: fresh cotton. The flavour is predominantly sweet and mouth-filling, but the oranges have now defeated the limes, and lend a fresh, slightly sour note and a dryish finish. A sophisticated aperitif.
KNOCKDHU 1978 * 20 Year Old HIGHLAND - 59.7% Vol.
1 of only 629 bottles from Cask N° 1889
Drawn from an Amontillado butt, this has a gorgeous amber hue with good beading and only a slight nose prickle. The unreduced aroma is lightly sherried and dry, with citric notes (more lime juice than orange). These latter develop increasingly when water is added, joined by a whiff of freshly made horseradish. In the background is a warm ironing board: fresh cotton, slightly scorched. The flavour is predominantly sweet and mouth filling, but the oranges have now defeated the limes, and lend a fresh, slightly sour note and a dryish finish. A sophisticated aperitif.
Linkwood 1990 * 16 year old Speyside 49.3 % vol
1 of only 269 bottles from cask 9733
There was plenty of activity left in this re-made hogshead, producing an elegant blend of distillery and mature character in his Top Class malt. The colour of butterscotch, the nose is of caramelised apples (toffee apples?), with a trace of cinnamon which increasingly becomes coconut (coconut tablet), and a hint of jasmine and sherbet. The latter increases with water, with a trace of citronella, which lends freshness, and a scent of new car interiors.
The flavour is fresh and sweetish, with an acid-drop acidity, a slightly ascerbic mouthfeel (cleansing) and bags of coconut in the finish. Lovely balance.
LINKWOOD 1982 * 17 Year Old SPEYSIDE – 64.2% Vol.
1 of only 234 bottles from Cask N° 4592
Linkwood Distillery was completely re-built in 1898 to produce ‘the perfect Glenlivet style (i.e. Speyside) of malt’ and has long been ranked Top Class by blenders. This example has come from a second-fill ex-Bourbon cask and is an attractive ‘Aztec gold’ colour, not unlike Sauternes. The nose is mild and relatively closed to begin with, but yields green bananas, apple juice and an arresting perfume after a while. The flavour is sweet over all, with a clean dryness creeping in at the end. The bananas return in the aftertaste, this time brown rather than green.
LONGMORN 1969 * 30 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 56.7% Vol.
1 of only 186 bottles from Cask N° 4249
Another 'Top Class' Speyside, with a big reputation among blenders, Longmorns of this age are rarely encountered. Happily it has come from a refill white oak cask so has not been adversely affected by wood extractives over its long life. The colour is bright Aztec gold; the nose lively and juicy (watermelon, kiwi fruit, nectarine and 'flat Buck's fizz' were all noted, with a development towards raspberry essence over time). The mouth-feel is almond-oily and smooth; sweetness balanced by dryness, with heaps of fruit. Delicate and pleasant; a connoisseur's treat.
12y MACALLAN Distillery in 1988 - 57.4% Vol.
1 of only 588 bottles from Cask Nº 24240
This malt makes a virtue of sherry-wood maturation, and the big, robust new-make spirit accommodates such treatment admirably. This example is also from a sherry butt (a refill), and has a deep amber hue. The nose feel is prickly, and the first nose is of Seville Oranges and liquorice: sweet and powerful; thick, oily and rich, with some treacle tart. Water develops the initial nose to a walnut pie, or peanut butter. Behind this is the characteristic light rubbery note so often found in sherry-wood, but this does not last, and banana cake emerges, with a nose of prunes and syrup. There is a little trace of sherry on the nose (with blood oranges). The mouth-feel is big and smooth (custard cream), and the primary tastes well balanced (sweetish, with some acidity and sourness in the finish). A pleasant
early evening drink.
12y MACALLAN DISTILLERY in 1988 – 57.5% Vol.
1 of only 612 bottles from Cask Nº 24250
This malt makes a virtue of sherry-wood maturation, and the big, robust new-make spirit accommodates such treatment admirably. This example is also from a sherry butt (a refill), and has achieved a deep amber hue in its twelve years maturation. The nose feel is mild, and the first nose is of treacle toffee and liquorice: sweet and powerful; thick and rich, with some pastry tart and syrup after a while. Water defines this as pecan pie, or peanut brittle. Behind this is the characteristic light rubbery note so often found in sherry-wood, but this does not last, and apple dumpling emerges, with crème brulee in the development. There is no trace of sherry on the nose.
The mouth-feel is big and smooth (custard cream), and the primary tastes well balanced (sweetish, with some acidity and sourness in the finish). The only detectable sherry is in the aftertaste. A pleasant early evening drink.
Miltonduff 1980 * 26 year old Speyside 45.1 % vol
1 of only 124 bottles from cask 12501
Miltonduff is ranked ‘Top Class’ by blenders and is a key component in the Ballantine’s and Teacher’s blends. As a result little is available as a single – indeed, Allied Distillers, its owner, do not bottle the malt themselves.
This 26 year old hogshead has only produced 124 bottles, and the whisky is a lovely rich, gold colour. On the nose, an enticing rum and raisin, even Mackie’s Honey Comb ice cream with a caramel topping. Then Bounty Bars, apple crumble with added cherries, nuts and cinnamon, and finally some coconut oil. Best tasted without water, this is mouth-filling with a rich texture and plenty of coconut and whipped cream in a medium to long finish.
MORTLACH 1989 * 13 Year Old SPEYSIDE – 58.3% Vol.
1 of only 258 bottles from Cask N° 2789
Mortach is a key filling for Johnnie Walker Black Label, so is not common as a single.
We have always held it in high regard, especially when it comes from an ex-sherry cask, which this bottling has. It is a refill cask (so the distillery character is still clear) and it has coloured the spirit a deep gold and given a rich winey note to the nose, with orange juice and cherries behind and a hint of pencil shavings beyond.
Water softens and sweetens and reveals the Speyside origin of the whisky, the sweetness being balanced by a tannic dryness, as we would expect from a European cask, before a return of the sweetness as you swallow. A good all-rounder.
Mortlach 1990 * 16 year old Speyside 57.5 % vol
1 of only 492 bottles from cask 5947
Sometimes referred to as ‘The Mighty Mortlach’ on account of its overall weight of character (bestowed by a curious two-and-a-half distilling process and by the use of worm tubs), the make stands up well to European oak maturation. This is a perfect example: unusually, a first-fill ex-sherry puncheon. The colour is polished mahogany, the nose deeply fruity (oranges and plums in liquor; plum pudding; then, increasingly, prunes in syrup). The overall effect is slightly bosky, and when water is added this continues, although the fruit dries out somewhat (dried fruits and glace cherries). Interestingly, there is no trace of sulphur. The taste is deep and sweet, with a thick mouthfeel; not as mouth-drying and tannic as we would have expected, with dark chocolate in the lingering aftertaste.
MORTLACH 1980 * 19 Year Old SPEYSIDE - 59.3% VOL.
1 of only 564 bottles from Cask N° 2166
Mortlach was the first to be established in Dufftown. Its make is famously rich and this example is no exception. The colour is of almacentista amontillado sherry, with henna lights, and the nose is rich and complex: pears in red wine, brambles in syrup, sweet sherry. When you add water it takes a short while to open up, then becomes scented with furniture polish and sandalwood oil. The flavour is perfumed and scented wood: rich and full; starting sweet then drying out. Our tasting notes included the words 'well behaved' and 'sophisticated', and, somewhat obscurely, 'perfect after a plunge in a mountain stream on a hot summer's day'...
NORTH BRITISH 1990 * 12 Year Old LOWLAND – 67.5% Vol.
1 of only 194 bottles from Cask N° 41147
There are only seven grain distilleries in Scotland, and the products of only three of them are bottled as singles. Not North British, the
This example of the make has a slightly pink flush to its pale gold colour, as if it might have been finished in a wine barrel. The nose is surprisingly mild for its strength and somewhat closed, with a hint of fresh peaches and a trace of liquorice. Water brings up butterscotch and an aroma reminiscent of outboard motors and fishing for mackerel from an old varnished boat.
The flavour starts quite sweet and toffee-like, with a pleasant acidity and a medium length. Light-weight (as grain whisky should be) but interesting. Boiled sweeties in the development.
PORT ELLEN 1975 * 24 Year Old ISLAY - 56.0% Vol.
1 of only 282 bottled from Cask N° 1765
Port Ellen is sometimes described as 'the Islay-drinkers Islay, but it is rare, since the distillery was terminally closed in 1983. This cask is a good example of its style. Mid gold in colour, with a hint of green, it presents brine, carbolic soap and plasticine to the nose - the first adds fruit and scented smoke; the second egg custard and langues des chats. The flavour is pleasant and surprisingly fragile, with a fine blast of peat-smoke in the finish.
PRIVATE STOCK De Luxe Blend - 40% Vol.
The aroma presents an interesting meeting of north-east and south-west characteristics; Speyside pear-drops and Islay peat smoke.
The mouth-feel is quite remarkably smooth, gentle and well balanced - 'settled'.
The tip of the tongue detects traces of salt (Campbeltown? Skye?); the age of the fillings comes over in a mellow mustiness (old trunks), and a trace of walnuts; the sweet-dry balance is well contrived and prevents the whisky cloying; the finish is satisfyingly extenuated. Overall impression is full-bodied and civilised; ideal for evening, even post-prandial drinking.
ROSEBANK 1992 * 9 Year Old LOWLAND – 61.0% Vol.
1 of only 274 bottles from Cask N° 1447
Rosebank Distillery stands beside the Forth-Clyde Canal near Falkirk, and from the 1840s produced a malt, which was so highly regarded that it was sold on allocation. In spite of this the distillery was mothballed in 1993. This example comes from a re-fill U.S. hogshead and has a pale straw hue. At natural strength the nose is juicy and fruity apples and pears with some soft brown sugar and a curious waft of steam. Water moves the sugar towards fudge and the fruit towards Starburst chews (aka Opal Fruits). The mouth-feel is crisp and spritzich; the flavour sweet and acidic with a short, dry, even sour, finish. Young and lithe, but with no immature edges. An excellent aperitif.
ROYAL BRACKLA 1975 * 27 Year Old HIGHLAND – 59.5% Vol.
1 of only 189 bottles from Cask N° 5467
Brackla Distillery stands on the Cawdor Estate, overlooking the Moray Firth near Nairn. It was the first distillery to receive Royal prefix – from William IV in 1835. It is now owned by John Dewar & Sons, who do not bottle it as a single malt.
The cask has given its contents the most gorgeous polished rosewood hue.
At natural strength the nose is rich and fruity – ripe cherries, blaeberries, red currants – with some tablet behind, and in time a perfumed scent of hair lacquer: mellow, classy, expensive.
With water these aromas hold well, becoming summer pudding, cream soda and scented solvent. The texture is mouth-drying and the flavour reminiscent of Armegnac, but slightly more sour, and drier in the finish, with hints of chocolate, then a return of the cherries.
A warming dram for a chilly summer’s day.
SPRINGBANK 1970 * 33 Years Old Campbeltown @ 54.4%Vol (Cask 1622)
Appearance: Old oak, with magenta lights suggests a first fill European cask.
Aroma (straight): A heavy nose, deeply fruity – plums, dried fruits, rum and raisin. Butterscotch and burnt caramel. Cigars and cigar smoke behind. A dry nose overall.
Aroma (@ 45%): Flattens somewhat and becomes more mossy or dusty (dry bark); scented wood (cigar boxes, cedar-wood)), some toffee notes and a curious but distinct herbal-medicinal note (medicine cupboard), which freshens up the overall impression.
Flavour (straight): Big mouthfeel, sweet to start and rounded; burnt sugar; some herbal-medicinal flavours; at once mouth-drying and mouth-cooling. Lingering fruity aftertaste.
Flavour (@ 45%): Big and smooth; sweet still, but dries out to even be slightly astringent. A very long, dry finish and an overall cooling effect, reminiscent of eucalyptus.
Development: Fresh. Eucalyptus.
Comment: This is also right up there among the top ten whiskies ever tasted. A superb example of Springbank – hugely complex (especially the aroma at natural strength), with an unusual mouth-cooling effect.
Springbank 1969 * 35 year old Campbeltown 58.8 % vol
1 of 425 bottles from cask no. 149
Of all malts, Springbank takes great age best. When Adelphi started trading old Springbanks were occasionally to be found. They have passed into legend, and their like are now as rare as hen's teeth. This is a refill butt and has given the whisky a good mahogany hue - not as dark as some we have seen, but indicating that the whisky may not have been dominated by wood. As is confirmed immediately on the nose: all fruit and nuts - a rum-toft of plums, peaches, apples, pineapple, with traces of almond oil (and possibly linseed oil) and a shaving of oak in the background. A surprisingly lively nose for its age, with some nose prickle. Tasted straight, the effect is very tannic; mouth-drying and somewhat bitter. Water brings the oily notes forward (adding scented wax), introduces some burnt sugar and hot sand, shortens the fruity notes (now pears) and turns the nuts into dry marzipan. Viscous, even waxy mouth-feel; surprisingly cooling. Some sweetness to start but predominantly spicy (cloves, liquorice, eucalyptus), and bitter as coffee beans. Finishes very long and medicinal-cooling, with a return of the spice. An extraordinary whisky, to be savoured with dark chocolate, espresso coffee and Robusto Havana!
90 points from the Malt Maniacs Matrix
TAMDHU 1990 * 12 Year Old SPEYSIDE – 53.6% Vol.
1 of only 264 bottles from Cask N° 4593
Another one from the estimable Highland Distillers, and a classic example of good American oak maturation. Mid-gold in colour, with a creamy vanilla nose – fudge, with sweet dried fruits and hazelnuts. Water raises apple and honey notes – Old Calvados and mead, with wild-floral scents – but the flavour is not as sweet as this would suggest. Sweet, yes, but with an attractive perfumed freshness which was hinted at by the floral notes picked up on the nose.
Although young, this could happily be drunk in place of a pudding wine. It would also be great with blue cheese.
TAMDHU 1985 * 15 Years Old SPEYSIDE – 55.3% Vol.
1 of only 286 bottles from Cask N° 9032
The colour is as pale as vin gris, but the nose is wonderfully sweet, rich and dense – treacle toffee, or ‘the burnt edges of a fresh pancake layered with slices of banana and smothered in maple syrup’, as one member of the panel put it. The addition of water closes down the nose somewhat and introduces new leather gloves and a passing suggestion of plastic buckets.
The flavour is very sweet to start, then drying out dramatically and finishing bitter, but not unpleasantly so. The overall effect is refreshing.
TAMDHU 1967* 34 Year Old SPEYSIDE – 49.9% Vol.
1 of only 138 bottles from Cask N° 7
Whiskies of this age are either divine or hellish and more often the latter - depending on the nature of the cask which has matured them. This is firmly in the former camp.
From the deep gold colour, we reckon the cask is a first-fill American oak hogshead. It has yielded a mere 138 bottles, which means that the angels have consumed 152 litres of alcohol over the years!
The first nose is mild and waxy, with gorgeous rich brandy-notes emerging, and dark fruits like plum and bramble. No trace of wood. With a dash of water the fruit becomes bramble and apple pie, with buttery pastry and a hint of caramel.
The flavour, which starts sweet then dries, is still vital even lively with a long finish leaving a lingering taste of brambles. Gorgeous!
TEANINICH 1971 * 31 Year Old HIGHLAND – 57.8% Vol.
1 of only 203 bottles from Cask N° 3576
Teaninich Distillery, by Alness, overlooking the Cromarty Firth, was doubled in size in 1970, the spirit from the new stills being matured separately to begin with. It is maintained that the spirit from the old stills is better than that from the new, and we can confidently claim that this cask is one. Deep amber in colour, with a good bead, the unreduced nose is mellow (as it jolly well should be after 31 years), but still vibrant: fruit salad, paw-paw, mango, and behind this a thread of smoke of sphagnum moss, sandalwood and crèmebrulee. Water freshens it but does not alter the composition.
The mouthfeel is soft; the flavour sweet, then sour, then dry, with echoes of dry wood and a long, dry finish. Well-rounded, as only age can bring, yet brisk and appetising: we would drink it as an aperitif.
The Whisky That Cannot be Named
“Appearance: Deep amber; polished mahogany. Heavy beading, despite its relatively low strength, indicates good texture, which is confirmed by thick, very slow running, legs. Aroma: Profound. Dundee orange marmalade. Rich, sherry saturated, Christmas cake. Marrons glacés. Natural pine turpentine. A slight char behind (burnt toast?)…Flavour: viscous mouth-feel, slightly waxy (teeth-coating). Sweet and fruity in front; some light acidity. No wood notes. Long, warming finish. Sandalwood, crystalline brown sugar in black coffee; pleasantly tannic and mouth-drying. Very long, tongue-tingling finish. Development: The aroma remains constant for a very long time, developing toffee scents. Comment: In 25 years of considering whiskies carefully and writing tasting notes, this sample ranks among the top two or three I have tasted. It is fantastically complex, big, deep and rich.
- Charles MacLean, Whisky Author, industry “nose” and Malt Maniac.
“Nose: wow! An extraordinary maelstrom of beeswax, shoe polish, turpentine, varnish, fir honey, Sauternes wine (Raymond Lafon, Yquem), Olivier’s (Humbrecht) Rangen de Thann (especially the gewurztraminer VT 1998), apricot jam, quince jelly, mirabelle eau de vie, milk caramel, hot butter, vanilla fudge… It’s endless. What’s crazy is that at 50yo, it’s still extremely fresh, and that some light floral notes like dandelion or buttercup make it extremely balanced. A piece of art, one of the most extraordinary un-peated noses I’ve ever had. Really a nectar...”
- Serge Valentin, Malt Maniac.
TOMINTOUL 1976 * 23 Year Old Speyside - 54.3% Vol.
1 of only 192 bottles from Cask N° 7320
A bench-mark Speyside - of the delicate, rather than the robust variety - from a distillery at the heart of the region whose make is rarely encountered. The colour (pale gold) is unpromising, but we quickly realised that the wood's lack of contribution to the colour had been paralleled by its lack of dominance over the essential character of the whisky, or the introduction of woody notes - often a hazard with a light malt of old age. The nose is of stewed apples and orange squash to start with, and a whiff of blistering road-tar in the distance. With water the full Speyside rush is turned on: fruits and flowers, lychees in syrup, almond sponge, vanilla - clean and creamy. Many of these aromas are present in the flavour - notably the almond cake - which is sweet, balanced by fresh acidity. A hint of prunes in the finish, and a development towards cold lapsang souchong tea.
TOMINTOUL 1972 * 26 Year Old Speyside - 55.5% Vol.
1 of only 176 bottles from Cask N° 2968
This one of the first bottlings we have tasted over 10 years old, and we were pleasantly surprised to discover a parcel of very much older casks which had done a great job on a sound whisky. This bottling is the colour of
old Sauternes, with a rich fruity nose (dried fruit, figs, bananas and limes were all noted - the latter being the key-note). Reduced with water the nose remains fresh and estery, with piny traces of painter's turpentine and moss. The mouth-feel is smooth and mouth-filling; sweet and warming, with traces of nougat, honey and malt. Still fresh and lively, in spite of its age. The kind of whisky you can drink any time of the day.
TOMINTOUL 1966 * 34 Year Old sPEYSIDE – 52.1% Vol.
1 of only 252 bottles from Cask N° 532
The road from Cockbridge to Tomintoul is invariably the first in Britain to be blocked by snow. The distillery itself has recently been taken over by a family firm. This bottling is from a sherry butt, which has given the whisky a gorgeous deep polished mahogany hue, mellowed it to unbelievable smoothness and scented it with dried fruits, glace peel, prune juice and old Burgundy. A little water brings out dates and plums, and a trace of freshly sawn hardwood. The flavour is, frankly, voluptuous smooth and rich, but not cloying. Water dries it out a fraction and introduces some spice. In its development it becomes slightly waxy. Utterly decadent! We scored it as high as any whisky we have ever examined.
TOMINTOUL 1967 * 36 Years Old Speyside @ 47.3% Vol
Cask 4479
Tomintoul is famous for invariably being the first village to be cut off by snow in the U.K., and when this cask was distilled it was not available as a single. Having been owned by Whyte & Mackay for many years, it passed to Angus Dundee Ltd last year. This bottling is from a hogshead, and the colour is straw yellow. The first nose shows its age – waxed cotton or tarpaulin – but after a while greater complexity shows itself: first there is a curious briney note (cockles and mussels), unexpected in an inland distillery, then a delicate sweetness (malt loaf, fruit loaf, oily tablet) and some horse chestnut husks. The flavour translates the aroma well, adding some nuts and banana fritters. The primary tastes are sweet than bitter, with a long finish. A curiosity with which to impress your friends.
TULLIBARDINE 1966 * 35 Year Old HIGHLAND – 54.% Vol.
1 of only 165 bottles from Cask N° 2122
What a gorgeous colour! Amontillado sherry with copper lights; almost certainly from a re-fill sherry butt. This is an uncommon malt; the distillery was mothballed in 1995, and there are rumours that it might be dismantled, in spite of drawing its water from one of the most famous springs in Scotland the same springs that supply Highland Spring mineral waters. The first nose is of Xmas cake mix with cinnamon, and a curious scent of air freshener or cheap hand-soap and at full strength it tastes as it noses, without the soap. When water is added the original aroma holds, then is overcome by ginger-snaps and Jamaican ginger cake with sultanas. Sumptuously mouth-filling, with flavours of ginger cake and cinnamon; sweet overall, but dries elegantly. A complex and interesting dram.
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